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Ingredient glossary
The actives, humectants and emollients we write about — and what each one is for.
Noorvana Editorial · · 1 min read

Actives
- Niacinamide — barrier support, oil control and tone, at 2–10%.
- Retinol — cell turnover and collagen support, introduced slowly at night.
- L-ascorbic acid — antioxidant and tone work, 10–20%, mornings.
- Azelaic acid — pigment and redness, tolerated by most reactive skin.
- Salicylic acid — oil-soluble exfoliation, two nights a week.
Humectants
- Glycerin — the default; cheap, effective, well tolerated.
- Hyaluronic acid — holds water; needs sealing to be useful.
- Panthenol — humectant with a calming effect.
Emollients and occlusives
- Squalane — light, suits most skin types.
- Ceramides — replace the lipids the barrier is short of.
- Shea butter — rich, best on the body or very dry skin.